I have been looking forward to Caune’s marble fete after my
several walks to the quarry to see where this splendid red marble comes from.
Walking around the village, it is impossible to just walk by the sometimes
huge…. always interesting, but not always, to my mind, beautiful…..chunks of
sculpted marble. Some of the pieces are fabulous, some are a little odd, but as
I say, always interesting.
A huge marble totem sculpture greets you as you enter the
town, it cannot be ignored.
Caunes quarries still
produce 3 shades of the red marble….rose pale, rose brun and rouge sang, which
is the darkest ( blood red). The quarries were an important part of the local
economy up to and including the 19th century. Now, although the
marble is still quarried here, it is taken to Italy for polishing and
finishing. So, the marble industry here provides some employment, but probably
more through tourism, people coming to see the quarry, an old factory workshop
operating as a little museum, and buying small trinket pieces.
Anyway….the festival ran over 2 days, the weather was
perfect, and I’m afraid, I don’t know very much more about marble than I did at
the start of the weekend. I have, however, learned a great deal about being
laid back about timings of when things are supposed to happen
I foolishly wandered down to the village at about 10am on
the first day expecting to see some of the 60 advertised sculptors working
away. I saw one man setting up a few small pieces on a table outside the abbey, and a few commune
white vans driving around putting up road signs….but little else.
My second walk into the village, 4 hours later, was more
successful, and there were quite a few stands displaying sculptures…..and quite
a few other things…..clearly not made of marble.
The fete association organised a splendid repas and concert
last night. As I was on my own I felt a little strange about turning up to the
meal, so planned to slip in quietly afterwards, as the concert started. It
didn’t quite work out like that.
The meal started at 8, the concert at 9. So at 8.45 I
wandered into the caveau where it was to be held. My neighbour Miriam spotted
me and insisted I sat with some Americans who had a space on their table…..the
meal had not even started…… At 9 the food started to arrive, and by 11 it was
just about over. It was a wonderful meal, wine flowed, the Americans (and one
Australian) were delightful….much travelled, and had lived in France for
decades. I was shocked that one of the
Americans ( who lives in Paris) had bought a very small decorated leather leg
bag…….not hand bag, leg bag. ( It reminded me of something we would give to
patients to carry their catheter bags ), and she had paid 70 euros for it. I have
to say, others on the table were pretty shocked too.
By the time the concert started, many people were tired ( or
tired and emotional, after the excellent local wines, not sure which) . People
started to leave, and the concert part of the evening fell a little flat. The
flamenco duet did not manage to capture the audiences’ attention, which was a
shame, as I suspect if they had been performing 2 hours earlier people would
have loved them.
marble by night......taken on my walk back home from the meal and concert
Day 2 of the festival seemed to be better organised. There
were far more stalls set up around the town, and more marble was apparent.
I
however, failed to see any evidence of the great sculpting competition I had
been told about, and somehow managed to miss the musical entertainment set for
the afternoon. No times had been published for this, so I couldn’t use my new
found knowledge and arrive 2 hours after the posted time. Basically, I heard some interesting drumming
emanating from the village, as I cooled off in the pool at about 2.30pm, so I
rushed to change and went down to the village again…just as they finished. So I
wandered a little more, chatted to the lady from the boulangerie who was
selling artisan bread on a stall near the ice cream seller….bought an excellent
coffee glace, and wandered back up the hill to the welcoming swimming pool
again…..just in time to hear the drums start again.
My favourite is still the lion, much loved by 4 year old grandsons.
No matter how much we told Dexter that this one was a heart.....he refused to believe it. The Australian I met last night informed me that locals call it "The arse of the world"
My first Caunes festival……verdict…….brilliant, if quirky,
looking forward to many more.
What an amazing event and fantastic photos that convey the atmosphere brilliantly!
ReplyDeleteThanks....its a longer than I usually like to post...but it was a whole weekend event...it was fun.
DeleteA fantastic post, Janice. all so very French, even to the inevitable late running of the meal and entertainment. It sounds like you had a wonderful time and I do wish you could spare me a bit of your sunshine. :-)
ReplyDeleteThe sun is gorgeous, but I've already slipped into a pattern of mainly walking down to the village first thing in the morning, or later, when it cools down a bit. However, it was pretty scary hearing about the floods in Hebden Bridge while I was basking in the sun. At one point there was chest deep water, about 500 yards from our house. Amazingly, we were not flooded out. Hope you get some sunshine soon. J.
DeleteI thought about your British home when I read the news and am glad everything is OK for you.My native town of Darwen had some flooding too and I've never heard of that happening before!
DeleteSounds almost as organised and unpredictable as southern Spain! Great show though and typical that the food and drink takes precedence over everything else. Love Dexter's pose! I think I agree that the marble is interesting - not necessarily beautiful.
ReplyDeleteGreat post though and I think it's cool to be able to hear the drumming from your pool. Axxx
The food and drink was very very good. I've really needed the pool this weekend...it has been great to just go for a dip after all that walking backwards and forwards to the village. Its only 7 minutes down to the centre of the village, but 10/15 on the way back....steep hill + heat = incredibly good exercise.J xxx
DeleteI thought of you when I heard of the floods in Hebden Bridge. Hope all is well back home.
ReplyDeleteThanks BtoB, amazingly things are nearly back to normal, according to my husband. The cinema, first 4 rows of seats were underwater.....volunteers cleared it, they were closed for the Sat. matinee, but open again for Saturday night. It was strange hearing about it from France, and not being able to do anything. J.
DeleteFrench timing was something that made going out for an evening event too problematical for Mr. Fly...not at all well, he had a limited time span in which he was able to be alert enough to enjoy anything and the usual hour or more delay was too much for him to bear.
ReplyDeleteLocal events were all right...we were just up the road, not an hour's drive away and he could take part in the fun.
A local town used to have a wood sculpture competition every year - the totem pole was hideously reminiscent...
I haven't been here long enough to know whether I am allowed to describe something as hideous.....but in private I have certainly uttered such comments. I did wonder whether the mayor, becoming the ex mayor had anything to do with local residents' view of the totem.
DeleteFascinating post Janice and some excellent photos. It's great that you could take part and enjoy this festival on your own, and also get to meet some new people.
ReplyDeleteI love the arse of the world photo...brilliant!
Yes, at first I was a little concerned about Dexter's inventiveness, refusing to see that this sculpture was actually a heart.....but seeing the photo, and now discovering that the locals think the same....it seems ok. Hope you're feeling better, and looking forward to your daughter's visit. Jx
DeleteHi, I'm another local blogger who was at the Fete on Saturday. Once you've lived here a while, you know to turn up for events at least half an hour late :) For village meals, I make it later because there's always an hour drinking aperos before you get to eat anything. We have a friend who is so notoriously late even by local standards that we once turned up for a dinner invitation chez lui 45 minutes late, and he was still in the shower :)
ReplyDeleteI put some photos on Flickr and blipped one too.
Nice to hear from you Veronica. Any other local tips would be much appreciated. I think I'll easily slip into the being laid back about timings though.
DeleteI enjoyed this post Janice.
ReplyDeleteIt seems that France runs on it's own time...
It does indeed, mind you it is so hot here at the moment, it is taking me hours to do anything. I have also found it very enjoyable....doing nothing, and spending hours over it.J.
Deletemarrante cette photo des fessiers
ReplyDeleteC'est mon petit-fils mechant !
Delete