Sunday 7 April 2013

Film stars and toilets

Deborah Williamson's depiction of Kohler......all the buildings are those she remembered from her youth....most are still there.....just not quite like this. You cannot see Lake Michigan or the Sheboygan lighthouse from Kohler.

One of my favourite places in the world is a village called Kohler. It is famous for engines and bathrooms.....and toilets. It is also the home of what was once, and probably still is, Wisconsin’s only 5 star hotel......and these things are all connected.
The Kohler Factory...office building.
 
It was a model village, built to provide homes for the workers in the Kohler factory. What is now the beautiful American Club 5 star hotel was originally a boarding house for immigrant workers in the factory.
Darlyn, longtime Kohler resident, sitting on the wall outside the 5 star American Club.
 The factory began in 1873, on a site about 4 miles east of Sheboygan which is on the shores of Lake Michigan. John Michael Kohler founded the Kohler Company in what was then a small farming hamlet known as Riverside. ( It was in a bend of the Sheboygan River ). The factory made engine driven generators and later became plumbing producers. Descendents of J.M.Kohler built up the factory and decided to build the village.
 
By far, my favourite house in Kohler....where Darlyn lived her whole life, from 1933 until 2011
The town grew as houses for the factory workers were built. By 1925, the first few streets had been completed, with 156 houses. It was modelled on the idea of an English village. Some of the houses were brick, and despite me not recognising them as such, I was informed they were supposed to look like English houses. The school, the post office, the police station, the fire station, a theatre, a park, a bandstand, and various denomination of churches were all built surrounding the growing factory complex, where engines and generators were designed and assembled.These buildings can all be seen in the Deborah Williamson print at the start of this post.

By the 1980s the luxury element of the new subdivisions that were being developed meant that the outskirts became popular with the already wealthy. Huge mansion type buildings were developed, around small natural and some man made lakes. A small upmarket mall was built, replacing the few family run shops, an elegant sports centre opened, with a floating restaurant on a lake, with a pretty artificial beach for sports centre members to enjoy.( The floating restaurant has long gone.... I used to love it ).

Bathroom fittings....and very high quality bathroom fittings were designed and built in Kohler. Now....in hotels and public buildings, offices and in homes, in many US cities, and some European cities.....check the name printed in the toilet..... A large percentage of them will have Kohler Co. printed on them. I always feel at home if the bathroom fittings are Kohler !

a Kohler sink at the JMKohler Arts centre......an interesting piece !
The Kohler family ran the company....and the village....although, of course, there is a village board. The family support and sponsor art, theatre, music, as well as continuing to run the factory. There is an excellent arts centre in Sheboygan, called the John Michael Kohler Arts centre, and the Kohler Memorial Theatre thrives in Kohler itself.

The Kohler-Andrae State park is nearby...along the coast of lake Michigan and River Wildlife is an area of 800 acres of wilderness that the company developed for the village. The Kohler family is all encompassing. It is impossible to live in the area, or even just visit the area without being aware of the Kohler family.

me....with very orange hair.....on the beach at the Kohler-Andrae state park.
I think my view of it all is as complicated as my view of 19th century British industrial philanthropy....some great things have been provided.....including amazing wealth for the Kohlers.

In the 50s there was a strike at the factory ( which of course, was not unionised at the time ). I have been told stories of splits in families, which still survive today, stemming from the strike....brothers who never spoke to each other again, as well as sons and fathers who became bitter enemies.

Herb Kohler Jnr., great grandson of J.M.K. has featured in my life. My great friend Darlyn, who lived in one of those original Kohler homes all her life, had regular run ins with him, and the village board, as they tried to do things of which she did not approve. Darlyn’s father had worked at the factory, and had bought one of the early houses to be built in the village..... at the factory end of School Street.

Darlyn, indicating that she was in residence.
A few years ago Herb provided some funding for the Kevin Costner film “ Open Range” . The film had its world premiere in Sheboygan ( it’s pretty unlikely that anything like that will ever happen again in Sheboygan’s 8th St. picture house ).
Herb Kohler jnr.
 Hollywood came to town that weekend. Herb Kohler hosted a reception in one of the stunning Kohler owned hotel areas ( it wasn’t actually at the American Club, but at a sort of Gentleman’s Club affair.... I don’t remember the name... I just know that to stay there cost an arm and a leg). Interestingly, Herb was given a bit part in the film...he was a bar tender. Clearly, putting up the money for the film gave him some interesting, and not just financial, rewards.

 
Darlyn bought Mark and I tickets to attend this reception.( I think they were $200 each..... and this must be at least 15 years ago, I was outraged at the outlay she had made, but she wanted us to have the experience, and she loved showing off “her village” ). Darlyn arranged for us to be picked up from her house in a horse drawn carriage, to be taken to said reception. I remember the carriage being directed to the entrance of the stunning residence, whilst guests who had driven their own cars, were directed to a car park and then ferried to the entrance in golf buggies.

As our carriage drew up at the house, photographers appeared, and people stared at us.... not knowing who on earth we were..... just that we were important to have arrived in better style that Kevin Costner himself.

me looking ridiculously adoringly at Kevin Costner





It was quite a night, and Kevin Costner was gorgeous.

Mark and Kevin Costner discussing something very important

Kohler is lovely. However, it has become a rich person’s playground. Golf courses, luxury spa developments, and of course the overpowering presence of the American Club itself dominates the “village”.

For me, its loveliness was sitting on Darlyn’s front porch, sipping a glass of wine with her, as we put the world to rights..... and that included the Kohlers.
A very young Jess, laughing at Darlyn and I, who were gossiping and drinking wine on the front porch.
 

 



27 comments:

  1. That was a fascinating analysis of place and time....and vastly increased my awareness of Wisconsin which up until now had equated cheese in my mind....

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    1. Living there in the 80s meant that I learned a lot about Wisconsin's claim to cheese fame. However, I never became a fan, finding it all very bland. I also thought the much locally loved Sheboygan bratwurst was pretty boring too.

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  2. What a fascinating post Janice. Thoroughly enjoyable. The town looks so beautiful and how lucky you were to have stayed there. And I am very envious of your meeting with Kevin Costner!

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    1. Kevin Costner was lovely. It is difficult to know whether he really enjoyed his weekend in Wisconsin, smiling at people and having his photo taken a million times. I suppose he must do it all the time....but probably in Hollywood rather than Sheboygan and Kohler. It was probably part of the deal.... Herb Kohler put up the money, and got a weekend of KC's time.
      Despite the Kohlers, I do love the "village", and even though my friend Darlyn has now died, I know I will go back there.

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  3. WOW! Was that Kevin's arm around you? Hugged by Kevin Costner!

    Mark looks very handsome, too. Lucky lady.

    Great post. Any more hidden secrets... :o)x

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    1. What can I say ? I didn't think I was the sort of person to be swayed by a movie star.....but he was gorgeous. How he managed to seem genuinely interested in things that everyone said to him, I have no idea, but he came over as a really intereting and interested man.

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  4. Fantastic post....many memories....Paul and Myrtle Jacoby were some of the 'victims' of the strike. He had come from Denmark to work at the company and did not strike. Such a wonderful man (and Myrtle too) and so many never spoke to him again. They befriended our 1st AFS'er Bolette from Denmark/Greenland and she spent many evenings with them speaking Danish. Every Christmas Myrtle made mittens for all of us, and later, for all of our grandkids.

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    1. So glad you commented Jane, thanks....you being a real live ex resident of Kohler and all ! I didn't know the Jacobys and haven't heard this story before, but know that both DK and the Roelses told me similar stories. I will always love Kohler, but will retain my healthy scepticism about some members of the Kohler family.....particularly whoever it was decided that they should build that ugly fence where Darlyn could see it from her yard !! Darlyn blamed Herb personally, of course. Jx

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  5. A fascinating post Janice - I am curious as to how you became involved with Kohler and in particular Darlyn, and were you on holiday or working and living there?

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    1. Thanks Rosemary, I'm glad you found it interesting.I taught in the Sheboygan school system in 1984 and 1985. I lived in Sheboygan itself, and met Darlyn at the high school where we both taught. When I returned to England I kept in touch with several people, and Darlyn and I began a 25 year friendship. Darlyn came to England many times, she came to my wedding and for a few years, came every Christmas...she was a very important part of our family. I took Mark, his children and 9 week old Jess to meet her in 1991, and have returned many times since. That part of Wisconsin has become an important part of our family's life, and in fact, daughter Jess is spending some time in the US this summer with a friend she made in Sheboygan....so the link continues.

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    2. Thanks Janice - a very interesting little bit of your history which is nice to know.

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  6. Wow Janice, what a story. Please tell us more.

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    1. No more to tell really.... Kevin Costner is gorgeous, and we had a really interesting time with him. I wish there was more to tell !

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  7. Great post and very interesting. I bet your thoughts after meeting Kevin C you wondered why you didn't say something intelligent. You looked a little nervous .... were you? How are you feeling today? Hope all is going well for you as you are in my thoughts daily. Hugs Sue

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    1. That is so true Sue. I think we waffled something about seeing Dances with Wolves just before giving birth to daughter Jess...and how we had taken her to the railway station in Chicago from The Untouchables.
      I'm feeling good...final chemo done and dusted, and radiotherapy is next week. Hope you and Petal are ok. Jx

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  8. Fabulous post Janice, especially as we hear very little about Wisconsin. I love a piece of naive art, and isn't that a lovely example! Totally understand your gazing at Kevin, and I would have done much the same 'twere I... Love that wicked sink, too :) xx

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    1. Somehow Wisconsin is regarded as a bit of a joke state isn't it. I seem to remember episodes of Cheers, where Woody was always regarded as a bit odd, coming from Wisconsin. I am completely biased... I love it, and our US trips always include a visit there. Milwaukee is a great cty, and Madison is wonderful. I love Lake Michigan, and Door County, and bits further "up north" are really beautiful. I should work for the Wisconsin tourist industry ! take care Jx

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  9. Wow! What a fantastic post, Janice! It has everything - and with a title like that, it had to really. It's a bit like a Wisconsin Saltaire...or is it? Parallels with Hockney (almost).
    He's taller than I thought he would be. There is something very magnetic about some actors, something palpable, isn't there? I was once in a queue at the West Yorkshire Playhouse behind Alan Rickman (who is short and not my thing at all) and found myself pressing up TOO close behind him - shamelessly and helplessly. So you're being very controlled in my opinion with Kevin. (But if Mark hadn't been there too....?)
    Great post, great story, great memories!
    Axxx

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    1. Annie, it was actually the Saltaire post that made me think about getting around to doing one on Kohler. The main difference is that Kohler houses were built for owner occupiers ! ....social housing doesn't come into Kohler thinking much !! saying that, the boarding house arrangement at The America Club, was geared to single male immigrants at the end of the 19th and early 20th century. Sheboygan was a big port, and hundreds of thousands of Swedes, Norwegians and Germans arrived in the mid west through the Great Lakes, many of them starting their mid western trek in Sheboygan. It seems some only made it 4 miles west to Kohler !
      Kevin Costner did seem larger than life, it was as if he was in technicolour and the rest of us were in black and white. How does that happen?
      It is great to have you back on line, to have these little chats. I missed you a great deal during your 10 days away from us all. Jx

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    2. Well I'm definitely back and I'm staying back! It's not that I missed being online but it's such a joy to return to everything with the added advantage of being in Casa Rosales.
      Axx

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  10. I loved this post, Janice, with its fascinating parallels and contrasts with your post on Titus Salt and Saltaire. You give such a vivid picture of Kohler and the way it has changed over its lifetime. Sad to think that a worker's village is now a playground for the rich.

    As for Kevin Costner, I thought he was wonderful in Dances With Wolves and am sure I would have looked just as adoringly at him if I'd been lucky enough to meet him. :-)

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    1. It was Penny from Illinois that raised the similarities between Kohler and Saltaire with me, when she read my Saltaire post. I had thought about it before, but it was Penny that put the idea of a Kohler blog into my head. Darlyn was sad that the nature of the village had changed, as well as recognising that the wealth it has attracted has enabled it to develop some good things too. The Kohler family's support for the Arts has been incredible, and museums and galleries and performing arts have thrived with their sponsorship and continued support over many years. yes... Kevin Costner was completely delightful, but I am horrified at how pathetically gormless I look in that photo ! Jx

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  11. That must have been a very exciting time in the town, the film premiere! What a nice way to acknowledge the funding rather than just an invitation for Herb to an LA screening or something. I've always thought Wisconsin must be beautiful with all those lakes.
    Fascinating post, Kohler still stands for excellent quality and I'm interested to know some background!

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    1. I am a real fan of Wisconsin, it is a vastly underrated state ! and Kohler is certainly an interesting place, with a fascinating history. You're right about Kohler quality,some of the more exotic bathroom stuff is amazing.....and outrageously expensive ! However, some of the basic stuff is just excellent quality.

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  12. I become so excited when I began reading this, Janice. I've been to Kohler, but you have BEEN to Kohler. What a great post; from the wonderful piece of artwork, to your story of Darlyn, her house that epitomizes Wisconsin, the story of Kohler, and, well, of course your rendezvous with Kevin Costner. Still my heart as it is clattering!

    Wisconsin is really a beautiful state and much more than beer, brats, and cheese. It is rich is history and has some of the best scenery one can imagine, as you know. It has always been a vacation destination for us in Northern Illinois, and is a state we now traverse many times a year as we drive up to Minnesota.

    When we visited Kohler, we found the village and houses charming, knowing it was also a way to control workers. The Pullman neighborhood of Chicago is similar (Pullman as in pullman cars/railroads). I hope you enjoyed writing this as much as I enjoyed reading it.

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    1. Penny, as soon as you mentioned Kohler in your comment on my Saltaire post, I knew I would have to put something together that represented my feelings for the village. I am so pleased you did, as it made me think about the history of the place alongside my close encounters with it over the years.

      Once Darlyn and I were sitting on her front porch, wine in hand, and the village cop car drove by at about 10 mph. Darlyn told me to hide the glass of wine, as there was a local Kohler statute forbidding the drinking of alcohol outdoors. I hid my glass and started a rant about how outrageous it was if you couldn't have a glass of wine whilst sitting on your own front porch. Darlyn let me carry on a for a while and then laughed.... there was no such bye law or statute, but she enjoyed me ranting about contradictions between Kohler's controlling attitude to individuals and the idea of the land of the free.

      Kohler's village board did sometimes seem to encroach on people's freedom as they demanded that the village retain a particular look. Darlyn certainly argued with them about a number of things....but I guess even Herb couldn't dictate over Zinfandel on the porch. Thanks again for getting me thinking about this post. I will have to visit the Pullman village when next in Illinois. Jx

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  13. I was so suprised to find this site and to see pictures of my Aunt Darlyn and the house at 123 School Street. My dad (Darlyn's brother) loved Kohler and we visted from Michigan every summer. It was very sad to see the house sold but the new owner is wonderful and has added a lot of improvements. Are you related to Darlyn? I know she had family in England. Linell Krepsky Jenks

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