Friday 7 March 2014

Hokitika


I hardly know where to start with this post. I have been back in the UK for nearly 2 weeks. The jet lag has passed and we have caught up with the grandchildren who have not forgotten us after our 5 week absence. I have started to wade through the 1500 plus photos that somehow managed to get taken, and I am now trying to put some thoughts together about our epic trip.

It was a "holiday" during which, every day Mark and I would look at each other and recognise how special it was. Every day was a brilliant adventure, every day involved us doing something amazing. That can be exhausting after 35 days, so in a way, I am pleased to be home, and am enjoying reflecting on all we have done.

The family bits were important and already I know that some of the lasting memories will be about the times I was able to spend with my cousins. We know we love Australia, despite misgivings about the political climate there at the moment.( I have misgivings about the UK and the French political climate too....so not much difference really ! ). I was very sad to leave Melbourne on 7th February, as it marked the end of the Aussie section of our trip. Melbourne is a fabulous city, and we had 10 glorious days there, enjoying the wonderful weather, the tremendous museums and galleries, the out of this world coffee and cafes and restaurants, and the proximity of my cousins J &N and being able to meet "new" cousin Linda for the first time.


                     
                  Mark walking between the bells, on the banks of the Yarra, in Melbourne.



 Linda and I, outside the house where she grew up in Mordiallac, just outside Melbourne

Anyway, we arrived in Wellington in the early  hours of 8th February, which just happened to be my 59th birthday.( That was strange......starting to celebrate my birthday nearly a whole day before it was my birthday in the UK, and receiving facebook greetings from the UK nearly a whole day after my birthday.)


                                                                  
                                                                        me and Bill

The NZ bit of the trip began with another cousin. I finally met Bill, who is the younger of my grandfather's grandsons, descending from his first ( and only legal ) wife. Bill left Australia many years ago and loves New Zealand with an all consuming passion.  He loves tramping, which I discovered is similar to walking/hiking, but because of the incredible topography in New Zealand tends to include tramping through chest high water, having to be helicoptered from one part of a track to another, and generally exerting oneself more than I would enjoy !



Bill and Mark at Te Papa, with a southern hemisphere emphasised map....not the way we are used to seeing the world....a bit like seeing the southern skies at night, and not recognising anything !

Bill is currently a guide at the superb Te Papa museum in Wellington, and one of the highlights of the trip was the personalised tour he gave us of the museum. It is always good to see a place with the help of eyes that know and love a place. Just as Bill helped us see Te  Papa through his eyes, we were so pleased to have his views on how we could travel around the south island, which was the next phase of our journey.


          Bill, Claire, Mark and I, at a wonderful restaurant just off Cuba St in Wellington

Bill gave us his old NZ map book, and carefully marked places we might want to stop. We easily decided that touring the south island of New Zealand via places Bill had lived, built houses, found gold, fathered children, climbed mountains, observed wildlife and eaten good food, would be a good idea. So that is what we did.



A page from Bill's 1981 map book, that was so well annotated that we never used the sat-nav....Bill's directions were perfect.


                                            
                                                    Mark and Bill, planning the route

To choose a favourite spot is impossible. Wellington was wonderful because of Bill, and his beautiful daughter Claire. ( I met up with his other two equally gorgeous daughters when I was in Melbourne ). Mt Cook was spectacular, Franz Josef was stunning ( if very wet and misty !), and the drive into Queenstown took our breath away.

However, the place I want to tell you about here, is Hokitika. It will always hold a very special place in my heart. I loved it.



( This is not one of my photos.....but an image that is used on post cards of Hokitika )

Booker prize winner Eleanor Catton's "The Luminaries" is set in Hokitika, and I had ensured that I had finished reading all 832 pages before I arrived in NZ. It is about the NZ gold rush, and a group of people who live in and around Hokitika and how they become embroiled in a mystery concerning gold, murder, theft, Maoris, colonists,  greenstone carving, ship wrecks, opium, betrayal, political ambitions, vulnerablity, prositution.......you name it, it's in there somewhere!



I suspect Hokitika hasn't changed much...except it is smaller now, there are only a handful of hotels/motels/backpacker places to stay, as opposed to the hundreds of hotels, bars and doss houses that existed in the 1860s. Some of the original buildings have been restored, and it is possible to find many of the places described in Catton's stunning novel. I was devastated to discover that she is going to Hokitika on 13 March to talk about the book at the Hokitika picture house. How I would love to be there then.



Again, not one of mine....but an image that is used in the front and back pages of "The Luminaries"



                                                                         Hokitika, now.

We walked around the streets, me trying to explain bits of the novel to Mark as we went. It wasn't too hard to picture it in the 1860s. The quay side was particularly interesting. It had been a very difficult port to enter due to the prevailing winds on the west coast, and the sand bar at the entrance to the harbour. Many ships were lost as they tried to arrive at Hokitika. The quay side has now been turned into a lovely walkway.....but the spirit of those times was definitely in the air.



                          The reconstructed and preserved Custom House, featured in the novel.



This is the motel we stayed in.....it was very very cheap, and very very basic.....but meant we felt we could treat ourselves to something a bit more luxurious later in the trip....and somehow, basic seemed right in Hokitika !

I could go on and on, and I realise this post is already far too long....but I have to just mention the beach, which was where we spent the longest time. Actually, I wont tell you about it, I'll just let the photos show you.





This is our small addition to the art gallery that is the beach at Hokitika.





I don't know if this link will work....but it might show you the annual competition held here .......and some beautiful sculptures.


39 comments:

  1. I hardly know where to start in leaving a comment to this, Janice. Clearly, it was a most amazing holiday and no one I know could be better at appreciating this than you and Mark. You've given us a wonderful glimpse into what you enjoyed and experienced through the posts you made whilst away...I know there's lots more to come too and am delighted about that! It would be impossible for me to capture more than a month of life at home in one or two blogs never mind a month long journey such as this....give us all you have! With photos and thoughts like these, I can't get enough.
    As for the beach at Hokitika....it is my idea of perfection. In fact, I have the vague stirrings of desire to upsticks from Andalucia to discover it for myself....it's not just any old beach that does that to me!
    Glad you're settling back to normality again - I guess it won't be long before the call of Caunes will have you on the move again though.
    Big hugs,
    Axxx

    (PS - guess I found a place to start....!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh it feels good to be back in blogland again. I feel so out of touch with everyone ! reflecting on trips like this one to the other side of the world, and like our Spanish trip last year, is part of the joy of travelling for me. I am completely wallowing in putting the photo albums together, and although I fear this blog has been far too long, it is the right length ...for me.... and although blogging is about communicating with others, i think its ok for it to be self indulgent from time to time. Anyway, I have started on my back log of reading, and am enjoying finding out what everyone else has been doing for the last couple of months.
      Yes, we're thinking of France again.... we're going to drive down this time, so I will have my car with us for 6 months in France, and I wont have to drive that bloody bus mark insisted we needed. However, I am really enjoying being back in Yorkshire, with the grandchildren, Jess, and the Overgate Hospice shop. Lots of love Jxxxx

      Delete
    2. PS to Annie.... the beach at Hokitika is amazing. You would love it. x

      Delete
    3. PPS to Annie... I've just added a video to the post.... showing something of the annual driftwood sculpture competition held at the beach..... it was just a couple of weeks before we were there, so that is why the beach was full of glorious creations..I suspect they just disintegrate over time, with people like us coming across them and adding more. Jx

      Delete
    4. Will go and catch the video as soon as I get up in the morning! Thanks for telling me. I am utterly entranced by driftwood and used to say my life's ambition was to be a beachcomber....I got pretty near to that when we lived in Malaga and loved it. Axxx

      Delete
  2. Hello Janice:

    Such an amazing and very comprehensive trip. You are most certainly well travelled. And how lovely to meet up with members of your extended family, both in Australia and in New Zealand.

    Clearly both countries have amazing scenery as well as interesting towns and cities. Melbourne we understand to be extremely attractive with, if we are correct, many fine C19 buildings. Hoktika obviously won a special place in your hearts. The beach is incredible. From where, we wonder, does all that driftwood come? And is it always to be found there?

    Truly a holiday of a lifetime. We suspect that you are already planning to return!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Good to hear from you J&L. Melbourne is a good place to visit...the museums are really wonderful. Hokitika did steal my heart, helped along by the Eleanor Catton novel. I cant imagine never going there again, so yes....all being well, I would hope to return.

      Delete
  3. Fascinating account of your trip Janice. As you are driving down to Caunes I do hope you will both pass through Reigate and show us your photos? Would be great to see you.
    Rick
    p.s - never really understand what profile to select - URL?? - so I selected anonymous! That's my excuse anyway.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Normally of course, I would delete anonymous comments.....but not ones from my favourite brother-in-law ! We were going to talk to you about the possibility of an overnight with you on our way to Caunes..... so yes, we can have a photo sharing session...cant wait to see the Costa Rica pics......love to H. Jxxx

      Delete
  4. Haha I did it! We just looked up Hokitika on a map, then realised we must have travelled through it on our way South. Think it was pouring with rain that day so we probably didn't take much notice! It looks lovely, especially your work of art. Speak soon xx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I suspect if "The Luminaries" had been published when you were there, you would have been more aware of it as a place to stop. I loved it. Looking forward to seeing you soon. Jx

      Delete
  5. Replies
    1. see...you're not anonymous anymore ! Jx

      Delete
  6. What a wonderful trip and adventure you have both had in Australia and NZ.
    Now you have enticed me Janice to get the book. I do love the way the locals use the flotsam and jetsam along with driftwood that arrives on their beach to make those wonderful sculptures.
    You have both missed out on the most wonderful, saturating, wet, miserable winter!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, we really do feel we have missed the winter this year, although friends here in Yorkshire feel they have missed it too. No snow !!!! It has also not been as wet as further south. yes, we have had a wonderful time, and although the book is hard work ( I think) it is worth the effort. I loved it. jx

      Delete
  7. What an amazing trip - thanks for putting the video of the beach.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was delighted to find that video....sums the place up beautifully, low key and beautiful.

      Delete
  8. You've had a stunning trip..both physically and emotionally.

    Did you come across the book by chance?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The novel was last year's Booker prize winner.... and sad person that I am, I usually try to read all the shortlisted books, using it as a sort of recommendation list for things I might enjoy.....it usually works out to be interesting, even if I don't love all the books. I did, however, love the Eleanor Catton book... its only her second novel, she's really young....but an enchanting writer . I think we would have gone to Hokitika even if I had not read the book, as my cousin built a house there ! ( and one of his daughters was born there ). J

      Delete
  9. Wonderful post Janice.I was hanging on your every word...... I loved how you used the page from Bill's map book. The beach sculptures made me want to get out there and do them for myself.This spring when we are on the East Coast I will do one in your honour.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Maria, Bill's map book is going to have a place of honour on our shelves from now on. The driftwood sculptures were really lovely. I have no idea why so much of the stuff finds its way to Hokitika, but it clearly does...every year. J.

      Delete
  10. Janice, you have me entranced with your words and your photos and all that you share. Fabulous.
    Now, I must read The Luminaries. On my list it goes, but, I need to ask you if you've read "The Road from Coorain" by Jill Kerr Conway? It is here wonderful memoir of growing up, the only daughter, on a remote farm and the road her life takes after the death of her father. She eventually becomes the first woman president of Smith College. Put in on your TBR list for when you have time. I think you will enjoy and appreciate it, especially now that you have experienced Australia so intimately.

    I am living vicariously through your trip, Janice. Keep posting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I will certainly look out for the Jill Kerr Conway book...you are the second person who has told me about it.... so I must get hold of it. I think you would like the Eleanor Catton book.... it is very very long, but so beautifully written, I found it hard to put down. Then, walking the streets that she wrote about, I wanted to read it all again. J.

      Delete
  11. Fabulous post on your fabulous trip, Janice. You did so much and all of it very interesting. I had to look up Hokitika as I have never heard of it; but now of course, I really want to go there. That beach alone would be worth the trip - it made me think of the movie The Piano, set on that rugged west coast. I know Mordiallac, we pass through there every time to go visit my cousin. Melbourne is a wonderful city to visit, and I know you had a great time there. Next time: Brisbane!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Now you mention it, the whole NZ west coast , with its mists and clouds, did remind me of The Piano. The sparse population, even now, certainly had me thinking about what it must have been like 100 or so years ago.
      I'm sure I would like Brisbane, but somehow I suspect that Melbourne will always be my favourite Aussie city. My daughter Jess also loves it with a passion.....and she was so jealous of this trip that Mark and I were able to make.

      Delete
  12. Oh my - what a wonderful trip it sounds! Your post really gets over what a special time you had and you will have the most amazing memories to ponder over for months and years to come.
    x

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I really do find reflecting on holidays to be one of the best bits ! I've always enjoyed working through the photos to determine which ones make it into the printed out version.... and no blogging helps with the reflection process too. Jx

      Delete
  13. It's certainly not too long a post Janice, and in any case as you indicated to Annie, blogging is for you. Sometimes we think we should only write what others may want to read,but we forget that whatever we write, it will be of interest to someone. So this trip is all about you, and I for one am enjoying your recollections and lovely photos, and can't wait to see more. I doubt I'll ever get to visit Australia and New Zealand in my lifetime, but you are making it feel like I'm there xxx

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Blogging has certainly been a pretty self indulgent pastime for me recently Ayak, but it is good to be getting back into following other people's adventures again, and getting involved in discussions with people. As for Australia and New Zealand...I am very pleased I have been lucky enough to visit. This last trip really was very special. Jx

      Delete
  14. What an amazing trip, you're lucky to be able to go away for such a lovely long time! I LOVED the driftwood sculptures, couldn't help but think that's what Hebden Bridge might look like with a beach! So wonderful to find like minded souls the other side of the world, both family and strangers.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You are right.... Hokitikans and those from Hebden Bridge would get on very well. I do love the idea of a Hebden Bridge beach. Jx

      Delete
  15. Janice...this was an amazing trip, I followed it on FB. So nice to see some members of your Family....and to have all those memories to have and share for a lifetime.....
    Awesome sculptures on the beach, very interesting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I did love that beach ! and yes, seeing family and meeting "new" family has been a real adventure.

      Delete
  16. I'm not on Facebook so have only got to follow your trip through your blog posts. It looks to have been a wonderful holiday for you, and to enjoy such amazing scenery together with meeting family and cementing your friendships must have been a real boost for you.

    Great pics which superbly illustrate your writings.

    Will you be going out to Caunes soon?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. We'rte off to Caunes at the end of April, planning a brief trip back to Yorkshire for le tour's grand depart....and then back to France to see the Carcassonne stage.

      Delete
  17. Wonderful post Janice. I fear the nearest I'll get to New Zealand are my memories of reading "The Bone People" by Keri Hulme and the occasional old greenstone hei-tiki I find on my antiquing travels (I love these).

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I bought some greenstone earrings...not antique unfortunately, but lovely anyway. It is beautiful. I havent read The Bone people...another one for the list !

      Delete
  18. This is a super post, Janice and gives such a good flavour of your trip and the people and places you saw and loved. There are no set rules about how long a blog post has to be. :-) You obviously adore Australia and now New Zealand and with long-lost relatives to visit, I can't see this being your last visit to either country.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I do like to think I will get back there again Perpetua. There is still so much I want to see, and of course I am one of those people, who always wants to go back to places I have loved... so trips get longer and longer, having to combine, the old and the new.

      Delete