Anyone who saw John Pilger's "Utopia" recently, or happened to catch an amazing film called
"Rabbit Proof Fence", will have, like me, become more aware of some of the horrors experienced by the aboriginal population of this amazing country. Forced abduction of children, serious attempts to breed out blackness and the continued view that the aborigines are " a problem" is a significant part of Australian history, but it is largely hidden from the experience of visitors. I think it is largely hidden from many white Australians. John Pilger's spoke to many white Australians in the course of his research for "Utopia" who clearly had no idea what he was talking about.
I noticed that at the start of each Test match ( I expect I will mention cricket and our dreadful performance against a superior force a few times while I am blogging from Australia....but not here) that Aboriginal elders have welcomed the spectators to tribal lands. I haven't seen that before, and I don't suppose many people have thought that of course, the cricket grounds are on tribal lands.....it was all tribal land, until white Europeans arrived....not that long ago.....and took it.
Since we arrived, just a few days ago, we have found very little evidence of an indigenous population in our excursions. There was a brief mention about the foods aborigines ate at the shipwreck museum in Freemantle, nothing at all at the Royal Mint museum in Perth, which was fascinating and concentrated on the Europeans rush for gold in the 19 th century, and so far, nothing connected to the logging and saw mill industry that has dominated the recent history of the area in the south west that we are visiting now.
I love this place, but the racism beneath the surface is scary. Someone on the Pilger's programme said, when discussing ways to solve " the aboriginal problem"...... That to solve it, you wouldn't start where we are now.
I will return to this issue while I am here..... I will count the number of times an awareness of an indigenous history is recognised...... But, I, like so many others, will love being here, love all the things I can see and do..... And I will be able to do nothing to improve anything.
I can't pretend I'm not loving it.
Mark by the Indian Ocean, Eagle Bay.
This huge wild kangaroo was just outsider our bedroom last night.
Lovely photos Janice and I'm pleased you're having a good time.
ReplyDeleteI'm not at all surprised that you have decided to write about this subject. You are after all a person of conscience, and as such you will always be concerned about any unfairness in this world. It is disturbing that there is this underlying racism. In fact until reading your post I hadn't realised quite how bad it was, and that it would seem that the aboriginal race are being wiped out...or at least swept under the carpet.
I have a very simplistic view of life. Why do people talk about "the aboriginal problem"? Why is it a problem? We all entered this world the same way, and we will all exit it the same way. Whilst we are all here, we are all as important as each other. Oh I don't know... maybe my view is just too simple. :-(
Thanks for your comments Ayak. We are having a wonderful time, and I need to remind myself that racism is everywhere......the English have a particularly nasty brand ! It is Australia Day tomorrow, so Patriotism will abound, the Pilger's programme had in interesting take on that too.......I will miss most of the celebrations as we will be in the air for most of the day, bound for Tasmania. X
DeleteWelcome to Australia, Janice. Isn't Freemantle an attractive and interesting place! You are looking relaxed and beautiful so it must be agreeing with you. You have brought up a good topic, the place and role of the indigenous population in Australia, something which interests me also. For the best part of two centuries, the official line was all about ways of making them disappear - just awful. Better attitudes in recent times, but there is a long way to go and a lot of ground to cover. I did some indigenous studies at University and really enjoyed it, learning a lot which was repressed information as I was growing up. One area where indigenous history and contemporary life is explored and encouraged is in the arts: visual, music and performance. Maybe you could consider seeking out some of these experiences during your travels.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comments Patricia. I hated the idea that I would offend any of my Australian blogging friends, especially as I know how racist the Engliah can be!
DeleteThree above comment published before I was ready.... Sorry, also it seems virtually impossible to edit anything on this damn I pad, so please excuse typos! I am aware of the celebration of Aboriginal art..... And saw lots of examples of that when I was in Melbourne 3 years ago. I have also noticed more acknowledgement of the existence of racism in some of the media. I watched a fascinating programme on the Australian Black Poer movement...that should say Black Power..... Earlier this week. I knew nothing about it at all, and was fascinated to see its connections with other political movements of the 1950s and 60s.
DeleteAnyway, don't think I am spending all my time worrying about Aussie racism.... I am loving being here, and find the Aussies to be amazingly friendly and hugely welcoming. The Aussie cricket fans are brilliant, lots of sledging.....but all incredibly good humoured and I think most of the crowd in Perth, yesterday, were even a bit pleased that England won..... They know they've won the important stuff, so didn't begrudge us a one day victory. Jx
You are looking incredibly well, Janice and your photos are stunning.
ReplyDeleteI have always been very saddened and shocked at what I have seen and met in terms of Australian attitudes towards the Aborigines and what this effect has had on the people over the last centuries. I think it's worse than you have painted but obviously would take more than a blog post to really do the situation justice. Glad you mentioned John Pilger too - he's always been a hero of mine!
I do agree with Patricia who mentions the art and music of the Aborigines - as you might imagine, I LOVE this type of art...very Zen too!
It's a great post and has worked really well from your iPAD - hope we'll get some more glimpses and thoughts soon. Axxx
Some of the Aboriginal art we saw in galleries in Freemantle was fantastic.....and fetches huge sums now.....the hope is of course that the artists actually get the money ! Australia is such a beautiful place Annie. We have only been here a week and have already sen some ( seen !) incredible things. Kangaroos outside our bedroom, trees that go nearly up the sky, white sandy beaches to die for and the city of Perth, which is exciting, multicultural anderfectly positioned on the Swan river. Despite any concerns I have and share with John Pilger, I love the place and understand why it is so attractive to Brits looking for a new life. We met a guy at the cricket yesterday, who went to school in Holmfirth...... He now has Australian children who were apparently confused by their father's insistence on supporting England at the cricket..... They are completely Australian now ! The I pad is not easy......it is taking ages to respond to comments, and as for commenting on other blogs..... That is really long winded, so I hope people don't think 'm being rude when I don't comment much on what they have laboured long and hard over publishing. Anyway, off to Tasmania tomorrow. Jxxxxx
DeleteI'll be interested in your observations and thoughts about the culture, way of life and acceptance of the indigenous population in Australia. I think we are the right age for Pilger to be one of our heroes.
ReplyDeleteYou look fantastic!
Enjoy.... xx
Thanks Gaynor. Pilger has certainly caused a bit of a stir here.... He has been called a FIFO Aaussie, which is a Fly in, fly out, ex pat, who criticises the country from afar. However, others seem to be accepting what the programme reported, saying that there is a lot more to be done. I am, despite this, having a brilliant time.... Loving the sun, loving the scenery and loving the Aussies, who are , mostly, so welcoming and friendly. they love the fact that visitors love the place, and make so much effort to help you enjoy your stay. I also love the way that young people are welcomed everywhere...the backpackers, the kids, enjoying the freedom of being young, are welcomed everywhere and treated with respect, that doesn't come naturally in the UK. jx
DeleteYou look so well and happy!
ReplyDeleteI was aware of the greeting from the tribal elders from the previous Ashes series in Australia...but I think it more of a PC plaster than any real acceptance or respect for Aborigines.
I am feeling very well and happy thanks Helen. Despite any concerns, I am althoether fascinated by this country... Not least, as I said, by the fact that I have family connections, which I have only discovered in recent years. The cricket in Perth yesterday, was brilliant. They actually played well, and the Aussie crowd, whilst not really minding that we won, after our previous dreadful performances, did seem surprised that their team " allowed" us to scored as many runs as they did, and then did not produce a record breaking chase to win. I will be watching some of the women's Ashes series in Tasmania and then in Melbourne......as well as seeing some 20/20 matches ( men) in both those places. My sister in law is in Costa Rica at the moment.... Seems to be having a great time....not sure where they are or what they are doing though.Jx
DeleteBlast! If I had known I could have shown her some of the off piste places.
DeleteJanice you look so beautiful and contented.Your antenna are obviously receiving many signals about the culture you are in.I thought the photo of the wild kangaroo was marvellous.I am looking forward to more thoughts soon.
ReplyDeleteYou would just love the wild life Maria. The place we stayed in south western Australia,...Pemberton , was incredible. the trees, bird life and of course the kangaroos were wonderful. We observed that large male quite a few times, he was wild, but was not bothered about wandering near humans... We were just warned not to approach him....he was very powerful.
DeleteHi Janice
ReplyDeleteEnvious! It looks blissful. Yet again i'm falling behind with blogs, but it's good to see what you're up to.
A long time ago I read an amazing novel called English Passengers by Matthew Kneale. It's based on fact, and it describes very vividly the appalling treatment of Aborigines by white settlers in the 19th century. I very highly recommend it.
I will track down the Kneale book Veronica. I have become fascinated with the media coverage of Aboriginal issues.....whilst recognising that very few nations are squeaky clean when it comes to racism. We are having a brilliant time, and it is good to be missing the cold of Yorkshire's winter. it will be good to think that when we go back to the UK, we will only have a couple of months before we are heading back to Caunes.....flight booked for the last week in April ! See you soon ! !!! X
DeleteI will look out for Pilger's "Utopia". Despite prickly consciences, you are both looking very well.
ReplyDeleteI would recommend the Pilger programme..... It is causing quite a debate over here!
DeleteWe are having a brilliant time, enjoying it all. X
You look fabulous, Janice! and look at Mark, all smiles at the edge of the ocean. You're off to a beautiful trip full of discoveries of all kinds, aren't you?
ReplyDeleteI will look forward to hearing more about your observations, cringing a bit, for my own country, which I love deeply, has similar scars on humanity that we continue to wrestle with our treatment of the native Americans and the stain of slavery. My hope is always that we acknowledge the past and endeavor to make it right.
Have you ever read "The Road from Coorain" by Jill Kerr Conway? It is her memoir and is a fascinating story of her early life in Australia, in utter isolation on their farm as a child, and how she eventually receives an education and becomes the first female president of Smith College. She is a fascinating woman.
I have see "Rabbit Proof Fence" and recommend it to all to watch.
Thanks for the book recommendation Penny. I will look out for it. I understand your cringing, Brits have more than most to cringe about when it comes to racism and treatment of indigenous populations of various countries in the world. I suppose what has surprised me about the issue here, is that it has been hidden for so long, and maybe only now is finally being recognised and openly discussed. There was an Australian Black Power movement in the 50s and 60s that had connections with that in the US, but as an American History student, I was not aware of it.
DeleteDespite all this, Mark and I are having a wonderful time. Perth and the south west has been fabulous, and next we head off for Tasmania, then Melbourne, where I will meet a cousin for the first time, and see other cousins that I met on my last trip. Our family history is tied up with escape from the UK to Australia...for a variety of reasons, some hidden for nearly a century..... All fascinating stuff ! Take care in the cold xxxx
Very interesting Janice! I have seen the Pilger programme & was shocked - Rabbit Proof Fence too. We both have Australian rellies & feel very awkward about bringing up the subject of Native Australians with them.
ReplyDeleteOur families are in the Perth area and their stories are fascinating - but we were shocked to hear from Pilger that Rottnest Island where one of them goes for a break "with the boys" was once a brutal Aboriginal prison.
That said we are fascinated too - some of Mr N's ancestors were settlers, circa 1850, from Devon. Mine were only "Ten Pound Poms".
More please!
The Pilger's programme has just had some publicity over here, so it will be interesting to see what response there is to it. Rottnest is fascinating. I went there 3 years ago on our last trip here, and saw one small sign indicating that there was an aboriginal grave site on the island, but nothing about the prison at all. Now, whilst still advertising the island as "Australia's favourite playground", the literature does say that one of the hotel bases on the island used to be the prison. Most of the literature advertising the trips there concentrate on the scenery and wild life, just mentioning "the rich cultural history" but not explaining what it was. There's is certainly nothing about the mass grave or the I humane treatment
DeleteAbove comment published before I was ready..... I meant, inhumane treatment. !
DeleteI am really interested in the way the island is presented as this glorious playground of wild life, and had thought it may deserve a blog on its own ! It would be easy to incorporate the history of the place in promotion material, in a sensitive way, but it really does seem to be covered up.
I see you are in Fremantle...ironically I knew nothing about Fremantle (and the rest of WA) until I watched a show hosted by your countryman, Tony Robinson and another show, Coadt, hosted by Neil Oliver! By now you may have seen on TV the opening ceremony in Sydney for Aust Day festivities which included aboriginal dancers etc. it is a very delicate subject the issue of Australia Day vs Invasion Day as it is referred to by aboriginal people. But you will find a lot of places in Aust that do honour aboriginal history. All Qld schools acknowledge the original residents in all their school assemblies
ReplyDeleteI must also add that the show Coast always featured segments on Aboriginal culture/history in each area featured. Eg a young aboriginal man showed how his ancestors found plenty of water in WA even though European explorers were unable to find water because they were looking for rivers etc.
DeleteThanks for your comments Maria. It has been interesting for me to read all the Australia/ Invasion Day articles in the Aussie media. I have, as you say, also found lots of places where aboriginal heritage is recognised, alongside the sad background of times when it hasn't been. We are in Melbourne now, and the Museum of Immigration is fantastic..... I could have spent days, let alone hours there....looking at the white immigration history, and the more recent immigration since recognition that wanting to keep Australia white was not a good thing.
DeleteIt is a fabulous museum.......and of course, some of the galleries and other museums in Melbourne really do celebrate aboriginal aspects of life in Australia.
I am having a wonderful time !,
So glad to hear what a great time you are having! Yes Bruce and I went to the Immigration Museum in Melbourne on our last trip to Victoria...we spent hours there; it was wonderful!
DeleteA fascinating and very thought-provoking post, Janice and aren't you looking fantastic! As a young man my father spent 8 years in Australia in the 1920s and early 1930s and absolutely loved the place. Yet in the many stories he told us as children about his time there, there was never a mention of the Aborigines. I only learned about them at school. Back then they must have been well-nigh invisible and I'm sorry to read that their history is still very patchily acknowledged. Safe travelling in the next part of your trip.
ReplyDeleteThanks P. We are having a tremendous time. The Aussie media has been full of the Aboriginal plight as we have been here for Australia Day, which celebrates the arrival of the First Europeans arrival.... Aboriginals call it " Invasion Day" and there is clearly controversy about its celebration. I think part of the problem seems to be that many Aussies quite rightly want to celebrate being Australian, and don't understand why aboriginals don't want to join in celebrating " being Australian". From much of the media I have read, it seems that they would be happy to celebrate.....on a different date.... Not the date that commemorates what they see as an invasion.
DeleteIt has made reading the newspapers even more fascinating than usual.
We are, also, having a wonderful time. It is a very beautiful country, and everyone has been fantastic..... Aussies seem to want you to love being here, and want to help you to do that. Jx
Such a good blog mum. All so true and I know that feeling you're talking about. I need to see this film and documentary dont I. See you soon xxx
ReplyDelete